Aster's Cultural Classroom
Texans’ love of travel by car has influenced restaurant culture in profound ways, and so any reasonable foodie has to admit that many of the state’s best restaurants are tucked away in stripmalls, under overpasses, and along access roads. Aster’s Ethiopian Restaurant is one such place.
The Ethiopian restaurant is located in central Austin in the shadow of the IH-35 upper deck. Inside, however, Aster’s has the cozy ambience of a family diner, and owner Aster Kassaye is quick to point out that her restaurant is an excellent place for families, particularly as the family-style service offers the shared experience of a shared meal. Kassaye also sees the restaurant, filled with posters and decorative objects from Ethiopia, as a learning space.
“They learn culture when they come here,” Kassaye says. “People are surprised by the culture and food we have. We cook the way we eat back home. There’s no use for me to change it.”
Kassaye is one in a line of restaurateurs – both her mother and grandmother operated restaurants in Ethipia. Aster herself previously owned a restaurant in the Austin area, but moved away for a few years. Upon returning, she began catering and selling food through area grocers and farmers. However, former customers kept begging for her to open up shop, and so, finally she did just over 2 years ago.
The restaurant remains a family affair, with Kassaye’s two children and husband helping from time to time and the entire family taking care of whatever needs tending – ranging from table service to business errands.
“It’s a family business,” Kassaye says. “That’s the way we are. We help each other – carry each other.”
For those new to Ethiopian cuisine, the restaurant’s Tuesday through Sunday lunch buffet offers an opportunity to sample at least 18 menu items, including lamb and beef dishes as well as vegetarian options. True to the insistence that the restaurant is a place not just to eat, but to learn, Kassaye and her staff are happy to answer customers’ questions.
“Our food takes time,” Kassaye says. “You have to be patient and love cooking if you want to make Ethiopian food. It is an art, so I just love staying in the kitchen to cook,” Aster says. “I don’t like to come out here [to the restaurant] – I’m shy.”
Shy or not, Kassaye remains committed to sharing her culture and her knowledge of cooking. For those who want to learn more, Kassaye is beginning to offer small classes in Ethiopian cooking. Potential students should inquire at the restaurant.
Q&A:
What is the best part about having a restaurant?
Just to see the people. They’re happen when they taste the food first – especially people that don’t know about Ethiopian food. They’re scared, and then they’re happy.
What would you recommend that people try first, if they’re not familiar with Ethiopian food?
Let them come to try the buffet. We have at least 18 kinds of food, and then they can know what kind they like.
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